Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
